Walker Creek

Great camp site just a short drive out of Darwin.

Big thanks to my friends at Darwin Bushwalking club for organizing an easy overnighter  suitable for the kids.

The waking was easy, the campsite clean and the creek still full of crystal clear flowing water.

10/10

Gunlom Hike .2

Three and a half days, three nights in stony country of kakadu escarpment above Gunlom!

Perfect weather, good company, challenging country...

 Some Photos

 

A track

Fresh Water

TRIGER ALERT!

Those who have a weak stomach please skip this post!

Every journey caries with it a set of unique experiences and learning opportunities.

What did I learn?

This trip was an exercise in Hygiene management.

Some time on Wednesday last week I consumed something that completely destroyed my gut biology. I don't know if it was the home cooked Indonesian food that had gone cold or the fermented health drink from the supermarket but by Thursday night my stomach was screaming at me.

Discomfort in the stomach soon passed into the bowel and on Friday morning when I should have been ready to rock and roll, I was experiencing cramps and a nasty rumbling down below.

My ride arrived at 6:30 am, we met up with the other hikers and were soon on our way down the Stuart Highway, I hadn't been to the toilet yet but I was already becoming fearful that there was more pressure at the base of my posterior than would be attributed to just gas.

By the time we arrived at Gunlom I had to bolt to the camp ground toilets! BoooM! My but exploded! Liquid explosion! NOT a good way to begin a three day hike!

The track was closed for an hour after we arrived due to trail maintenance, helicopters were delivering materials for a new staircase to the top of the falls! In one hour I had to visit the toilet three times!

I think that is enough graphic detail for this journal entry.

Before I go on with my hygiene report I should first comment on the quality of the walk. Excellent! The leader was competent and patient, group size was perfect (only six hikers in total), country was spectacular and a little challenging.

I had no map or compass so was completely dependant on the other walkers, that's OK though, it took all my concentration to keep my but cheeks together and avoid a nasty accident!

My new Scarpa Boots were absolutely brilliant! They literally carried me over the roughest ground I've walked to date. The benefit of good quality ankle high boots with deep tread is that you don't have to use so much muscle power or skill to hold your position on rough ground. These boots did all the work, my feet were a bit uncomfortable at the beginning but by the third day felt I had completely broken them in.

Back to hygiene management. When hiking and toileting in the bush personal hygiene is always a high priority. The relationship between the organism (human hiker) and the environment should be one of respect. Water is not the conduit for disposal of waste! Fresh water is a precious resource that cannot be abused. First rule of hiking is don't contaminate your water source.

Organising toileting should be a well considered procedure. Waste disposal must always be managed with the environment in mind. It is a matter of personal security. So most of the time while clenching my but cheeks and battling the urge to release gas/water/slime composite into the environment I was constantly surveying the landscape for a suitable place to 'dump it'.

Releasing effluent is only one part of the process. There's more to it. See list below.

Got the Shits cycle

After last expulsion:

• Use mind control over bowel to not allow unscheduled explosion.
• Reduce food intake to prevent buildup of fuel to be expelled
• Search constantly for appropriate place to squat (Nowhere near water source is acceptable!)
• Be extremely conservative with use of Bog Roll (I usually only bring about 50 sheets worth, nowhere near enough for this kind of situation)
• Avoid soiling pants at all costs!

The first two days were hell! I had lost my appetite, had constant cramping in the bowel and bloating! I had to carry the full weight of my pack on my shoulders and couldn't urinate without risking similar substance erupting from my arse!

By day three the cramps had left but motions were no firmer. On the last leg of the final day I seemed to have achieved a far higher degree of bowel control but the nature of my stools had not improved. During the walk I was very grateful that others donated toilet paper and hand sanitizer. If it wasn't for these welcome gifts I would have had far worse time.

In the hygiene stakes I think I succeeded (with help from my co-walkers).

I managed to:

• Complete the whole hike without soiling my pants.
• Achieve a sterile field between myself and fellow hikers (I don't think anyone else has been sick)
• Prevent contamination of shared water sources
• Bury waste sufficiently enough that it wont be disturbed by animals
• Achieve hygenic standards with minimal use of paper and other sanitary products

---------------------------------------------
More Photos

Tight squeeze

Beauty Leaf

Relaxed enough

Wide Views

Skeletal snake

Big thanks to my fellow hikers, thanks also to Bining/Arrakpi rangers who manage the park, Scarpa for great boots and God for the wonder of creation.

Hiking in Kakadu

So I joined the local bushwalking club just over a year ago and for several reasons I haven't actually done much hiking at all! 

One of the reasons for not hiking was that I had not been able to acquire a decent pair of hiking boots after my awesome Katmandu boots blew out on the first day of the Jatbula trail! 

I discovered last year that the full leather boots I had re-soled last year no longer fit me! I discovered this the hard way when my toes became badly bruised and the nails of my two big toes fell off after attempting the Great Ocean Walk in May 2018.

My I purchased an overpriced second hand pair of boots resulted in two of the biggest blisters I've ever had on my heels after attempting to walk to work in them last month. After a second attempt to wear them in I ended up ditching them at the airport and walking home in thongs!

No Luck with boots

Today I have my fingers crossed for a hike around Gunlom in Kakadu this weekend. 

Here's what I know about the route we'll be following:

 Schedule

" 1.Depart 7am, meet 6:45 at 3/45 Fill-out emergency contact info.

2.Friday lunch at Gunlom at the top of the waterfall (where we can have a swim).

3.First day. walk 8km walk -  close to creek. long day.

4.Second day. Over ridge to Allosyncarpia pool on Barramundi Creek. 4 km. Hard. No reliable water.

5.Third Day. 7 km through saddle to creek camp site. No water for 5 km.

6. Fourth day. 3 km. Walk out and drive back. Lunch at Gunlom.

Water -  minimum of 2L 3 L is better, assumes fully hydrated before starting the day's walk.

Fire at night, for ambience and cooking. Use burner for dinner and morning beverage.

Bring own first aid kit."

Full list of my preparation : 

• Purchased new pair of Boots from the local camping shop
• Purchased some dried food from supermarket
• Purchased gas bottle for stove
• Transferred money for fuel
• Paid membership of bushwalking club 
• Grabbed pack out of shed
• Told boss I won't be at work tomorrow

 As you can see most of my preparation has involved spending money! Now I'm broke I have no actual idea about where or how we will be getting along through the landscape featured in the image above and I do not have a great deal of faith that my boots will carry me.

A short walk to Sweetwater

A couple of weeks ago the kids and I joined a couple of other families and hiked from Edith Falls to Sweetwater camp on the Edith River just North of Katherine.

This was my kids first over night hike/camp adventure and I wasn't sure how it would play out.

Kid inspects tent

My philosophy was let the kids have what they want, they can choose the music in the car, food etc... I will even carry most of the gear, just so long as I can get them to go.

Kid in a hammock

Well it paid off, not too early on Saturday morning we were rolling down the Stuart Highway headed for Nitmiluk National Park with a few stops for caffeine along the way.

Just after Adelaide River I glimpsed the figure of a person and some kind of bike leaning against a tree. I couldn't resist my curiosity and doubled back to say hello.

It was then we met with Ms Blandine. A solo Kick biker 'La Trottineus' who is traveling the world in an admirable way. If I get the time I'd like to write more later.

Blandine

We met up with the others at the Edith Falls campground and spent quite a fun afternoon there, setting up tents, rolling around on the lawn and cooking dinner. 

The 9-12 year olds sorted themselves out pretty quickly and were busy exploring, throwing frisbies and generally soaking up all the fresh air an negative ion magic Leliyen had to offer. 

It was a comfortable night camping there on the perfectly level tent sites covered soft green grass.

Checking the map

Next day we headed out on the trail at about 8:30am

It was a bit of up hill to begin with but everyone was in high spirit and the younger kids were keen to prove their prowess as explorers.

The track to Sweetwater is only about 4.5 km long but we made it last, stopping at water holes along the way and taking a dip. It took us about three hours to reach our destination. When we arrived we discovered that there was very little room for our tents and another group had already taken the best sites.

The Water

Despite the heat and the flies we had a really great time at sweetwater. Swimming was awesome, the kids spent most of the day in the cool fresh sweetwater of Edith River. 

Hiking the trail

Unfortunately we didn't get much sleep that night. Rough uneven ground made things pretty uncomfortable for my team. But the views were worth it. It was a night of a New Moon so in effect there was no moonlight. We were blessed with a cloudless night and a perfect view of the starry night sky! We could see everything! 

At 5am some of us got up to observe the Eta Aquarids Meteor Shower which amounted to a serious of falling stars with quite sustained tails. We also followed the path of a few satellites that were quite easy to see in the moonless sky. 

It was a great trip, the kids grumbled a bit at the end but we all had a pretty good time and made it home safe and sound the following day. A successful first for us. 

 

Jatbula Trail

Travel Log

Wednesday 5^th – Sunday 9^th September

Last week, with members of the Darwin Bushwalking Club, I finally walked the Jatbula Trail in Nitmiluk National Park.

This hike was something I've wanted to do for years but I've not really had the time or the head space to attempt it.

Back in May I attempted a solo hike on the Great Ocean Walk which ended abruptly when I left the walk after just three days. A combination of ill fitting shoes, excessive pack weight, wet tent and flooded camp sites caused me to make a judgement call on whether to continue the hike or not. Pulling out was a disappointment but I know it was the right decision.

A little hard to get perspective, there is a camp site down there somewhere

Although the weather was out of my control I realise that my lack of hiking experience had me poorly prepared for this relatively easy hike. I decided I'd be better off if I spent some time with others more experienced. In July I decided to join the Darwin Bushwalking Club.

After attending a couple of club events I saw that there was a Jatbula hike scheduled for September.

I contacted the hike leader and was able to get my name added to the list of 12 people who would walk the Jatbula Trail with the club at the beginning of September.

This bush looked similar to Turkey bush but with much more fragrant flowers (full of nectar)

I've not been with them long but so far my experience of the local bushwalking club has been first rate! Experienced members offer to lead walks then do all the research and calculations of times, distances, and cost allowing the average punter (even inexperienced plebs like me) to simply follow a few instructions, prepare as recommended and turn up on the day. Rides are shared and the cost of fuel and wear and tear on the vehicle is calculated according to distance and divided by number of passengers. (Very reasonable indeed!)

Prior to the hike we were sent emails reminding us of what to bring and sharing information about the hike. I found the emails helpful and practical until I received the one related to pack load weights which I must say left me feeling quite intimidated. The hike leader announced that she would be carrying a pack weight of 10kg (before water) "WTF!" (Thunk I) I don't know how I can get 5 days worth of stuff down to 10kg! (Actually I think her ploy worked because I quickly got busy dumping unneeded stuff, I was still overweight but was a lot closer than I would have been.

Another email contained links to useful information, Park Notes a must if you plan to do the walk. Please see link HERE if you're interested. 

On day one I was picked up at my door by our hike leader just before 6:00am. By 9:00am we were at Leliyn (Edith Falls). We parked the cars and got our packs out just in time to meet the coach that had been booked to transport us south to Nitmiluk Gorge where the hike would begin. We would return to the cars on foot in 5 days.

After checking in at the ranger station we caught the ferry across the river adjusted our packs and commenced the walk by about 11:00 am.

The sun was already high it was a hot but dry day, just fine for walking. As we set off single file up hill from the river bank a cloud of grey dust rose above our shins. Yes! It's really happening. I was feeling particularly buoyant, I actually didn't think I'd be making this trip until next year. Yet. Here I was with a pack on my back and my boots grinding the loose gravel of a 60km track!

Boots...

After about an hour and a half of walking I noticed my right boot seemed to be slipping, I looked down and found the sole had become unstuck all the way from the toe to about a third of the way to the heel! I couldn't fricking believe it! First day of a 5 day hike and I felt sure I'd have to pull out due to a the pathetic state of shoe manufacturing in the 21^st century! 

Another member of our group was really struggling to keep up, hills just completely knocked her and we were all wondering if it was safe for her to go on. As my shoes were probably not going to make it I reluctantly offered to walk back with her to the river and to leave the hike. I couldn't believe, I'd actually be dropping out of another trip! 

Having progressed to a position quite far ahead of the slower walkers I took my boot off, pulled out some cable ties and begun a haphazard attempt at repairing my boot. After borrowing some electrical tape and a spare shoelace from another hiker I could only hope that the sole would remain attached. Another hiker, with far more experience, inspected my handiwork and made a few suggestions then reassured me that it happens every trip and if I could prevent the sole from pealing back it might be possible to complete the walk.

Trail Marker. There were many of these

As for going back... the other hiker was quite determined to proceed, so we moved on and all arrived at camp in tact.

Crystal falls camp was beautiful, I arrived with a cracking headache (Caffeine withdrawal) but after a couple of panadol a cup of coffee, a swim in the most inviting waterhole I soon felt quite relaxed.

At about 2am on our first night at camp I heard a deep and heavy breathing followed by heavy grinding sound, at first it was faint but grew heavier and louder as whatever it was got closer to my tent. I lay silently in my bed and listed intently, I had heard that sound before, it was the deep slow bovine chomping of a large grass eating mammal... A BUFFALO! I shone my torch and could just see the eye shine of an animal about 20 meters from my flimsy mosquito dome. I had no idea what I should do so I just lay there. After five minutes it had passed.

Over the next four days and three nights we passed through high stony country and low sandy soils, we wandered through a variety of habitats with quite differing vegetation types, some land had been burned while other parts still had a lovely covering of delicate tinder dry grass that folded over onto the track like a narrow carpet of straw. We camped by water holes of flowing water crystal clear and sweet to drink.

Sandy Camp - Tent, pack and Hammock. (I really like my hammock!)

Once again my pack was overweight but at not so much that I struggled to walk. I ate porridge for breakfast, a couple of musely bars for lunch and noodles at night. With just two coffees per day my withdrawal symptoms were gone and I didn't crave coffee at all. I could feel my fitness return with each day and all worry of work or life in the city evaporated. In the evenings a few of us would find a flat rock in the open so we could lay back and stare into the moonless night sky, full of stars planets and constellations. Venus was so bright we could see it's reflection clearly in the sandstone rock holes of clear spring water and hit the sack when it had sunk below the horizon.

At various stages along the walk I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude, a kind of bliss at the joy of just being. My life felt quite alright and I didn't need anything! Those are the moments I will try to remember. Nothing spectacular just purely content.

Along the way I had to make ongoing repairs to both my boots. Toward the end of the last day the complex network of cable ties, tent guy ropes, shoelace and tape failed to hold my right boot together, the sole peeled completely off. The boots had lasted far longer than I had expected with only 4 km to go I had nothing to worry about. A member of our group lent me his sandal and I continued to the end feeling as though I had been blessed.

We arrived back at the Leliyn carpark just before 2pm on Sunday afternoon. After a cool drink, a shower and a change of clothes we all headed back to Darwin satisfied and relaxed.

Thank you Darwin Bushwalking Club for providing this wonderful opportunity and great company. We all made it back safe, no evacuations, no major injuries.

Can't wait for the next one!

Extra thanks to the Jawoyn People (traditional owners), NT Parks and the Darwin Bushwalking club.

Attempting the Great Ocean Walk (pt 5)

SNAFU

There's no pretending this trip was a success. Not sure where my head is at to post 5 entries on a 2 and a bit day's walk but I was feeling typey... 

After resting on the lawn outside the Otway Light Station I needed to make a decision. Would I continue along the walk or quit now while I had the possibility of getting a lift back to town?

Up until now there had been a school group a couple of hours behind me for each section I had walked, they were camped close by each night. Close enough for me to know they were around and it was reassuring that if I had an accident they would likely find me. 

If I chose to continue I would be travelling through more remote parts of the park and from my discussion with the ranger, it was clear that there was absolutely no one else on the trail, either in front or behind me. You can only hike The Great Ocean Walk in one direction, East to West. I did not like the prospects of travelling alone in such bad weather.

Even at the Light Station there was no public phone, no mobile reception and no means of communicating with the ranger.  I was feeling less than positive about my prospects of completing the walk. 

One of the school leaders offered me a ride back to Apolo Bay in his ute but I was determined to keep going so I thanked him for the offer then proceeded 600 meters along the track to the Hikers camp ground. I found it difficult to get to the camp as there were a few busted tea tree limbs hanging across the path... not a good omen. When I got to the camp it was wet, my gear was wet too. 

I took off my leach bite shoe and sock, they squelched with the sound of thickly congealed blood sticking to leather and wool. I could smell the blood. The wound was small but my socks were disgusting! I looked down at my feet and could see bruises forming under the nails... 

I considered the potential for my feet giving out or the sleeping bag becoming ruined by water and decided there was too great a chance of me being stuck on that trail and not being able to get out until the ranger realized I hadn't reported finished in five more days.

It was then that I decided to quit the trail! 

I legged it back to the car park, had a quick word with one of the adult leaders of the school group, sured up a lift back to Apollo Bay and sat back on the grass and lolled in that terribly no man's land between relief and regret!

My trip home was quite fluky. We got to Apollo Bay Information Centre exactly 45 minutes before the bus to Geelong was due. I booked my tickets through to Melbourne and then sat at the bus shelter and watched rain clouds rolling over the hills and blasting Apollo bay with an icy cold spray of mountain rain while I waited for the bus.

The brisk refreshing delight of Otway coastal rain

Apollo Bay Bus shelter

Arrived at Geelong station with 10 minutes grace, enough time to hobble to the Melbourne bound platform and before I knew it I was on the train... At Southern Cross I switched tracks to the Hurstbridge line and my train arrived within 10 minutes. I can't remember exactly what time I got back to mum and dad's place but it was a dream run... From the time I arrived at the Light Station until the time I was was soaking in a hot bath was something like 7 hours. 

Geelong Station

The weather remained bad for hiking for the remainder of the week. I don't mind hiking in the rain, even if it's cold but I was not equipped to for wet nights. My down sleeping bag would have failed miserably and I would have been freezing. I am sure I made the right decision but can't help working through various scenarios that would have allowed me to complete the walk.

Today 7 days later did we have a beautiful cool and sunny day.

One major failing of this track is the fact that you must book your camp sites in advance and there aren't any options for altering your schedule while on the track. If I could have deferred for a couple of days I would have found a way to complete the track in sections or at least taken a day's rest while I replace my sleeping bag.

I will return to The Great Ocean walk and I WILL complete it!

(Fin)