Moonlight Rode.

I got the timing slightly wrong with the Mandorah ferry on Thursday. "There is no 4pm departure...!" The perplexed deckie told me when I arrived an hour and 10 minutes early!

"No 4 - 0-clock ferry? But you don't understand, I've planned this trip!" (says I, scoffing and ridiculing my own ineptitude while she just huffs and continues loading supplies for the bar)

OK, time to grab some supplies after all. Keen to be moving, legs full of energy I pumped it back up the hill from Cullen Bay and purchase some bubbly caffeinated drinks and a double shot of coffee from the servo. Satisfied I would be properly charged up for the ride I rolled back down the hill at about 4:30 ish for take two of 90% Moonlight Ride.... Whooo hoooo (For reals this time baby!!)

Moon rises over town

Of course by 5pm the ferry was chockers with Mandorahites and Wagait Beach commuters. So I ride at the back of the ferry with the smokers and pet owners beside ventilation pipes for the onboard toilet. Actually despite the woft of whatever the passengers ate last night drifting up past our noses the trip was quite pleasant. They're a different breed over there on the Mandorah side. The atmosphere on the boat was a bit like I imagine Darwin must have been like 30 years ago. From the moment the boat left it's mooring in Cullen bay I felt as though I'd been set free. I could sense from the mood on board that everyone was happy to be leaving the town behind them. Relieved and grateful to be heading back to their own little piece of paradise. Bloody well good on them I reckon!



When we arrived at the Mandorah jetty I could see a young fella struggling to land a decent sized tuna! He was pulling too hard on the line and his rod was bent over on itself, looked like he was trying to muscle the fish right out of the water from the moment it took the bait. I saw the flash of silver in the water and was mesmerized. I wondered if the fish was warn out enough for him to real it all the way from the water to the top of the jetty... Nope! Not this time.

Looking back on Darwin from Mandorah... That's close enough for most people here

Twilight moon at about 90% full.

Although there's quite a few stairs from the boat to the top of the Jetty, it wasn't too hard to lug the long bike up there. Looking back toward town the moon had well and truly risen above the city skyline. I stood and enjoyed the view and a bit of banter with some locals before setting my wheels to the road. Starting out is such a great feeling! One hour before sunset is a magic time to ride.

My main concern about riding at night was the possibility of coming across wild dogs or a pack of camp dogs. It turned out I didn't come across any packs of wild dogs. I did see one dingo while it was still daylight just before I reached Belyuen community. He was a skinny scrawny fella and bolted when he saw me.

Still plenty of light as I passed Belyuen community, where they serve ice cold slushies. Good to know on a hot day.

During the day it's as if there is absolutely no shade and so the scrub looks harsh, but between 5:30 and 7:00pm it's like riding through a magical forest of exotic looking trees and mystical Cycads.  In the light of the setting sun tree trunks are highlighted with horizontal light, an orange tinge gives the whole environment a completely different feel, like a stage lit from below. Birds are going wild the forest is alive! I looked to my left and saw my own shadow growing long in grassy verge beside me.

When the sun sets and moon takes dominance of the night sky all the hues and angles of lighting change again. They don't call it twilight for nothing. You have to be in it to truly appreciate the end of sun and birth of moon. To be 'On the Road' with none of the usual constraints of time or family responsibilities, at this time of day can elevate the imagination and free the spirit! I peddled on for an hour or so after sundown without using my lights. All the traffic was coming towards me. Commuters making the long journey home from work in Darwin.

Another hour on the road passes and the cars were coming from behind me. Time to put the lights on! I need to be seen! For a little while I wondered where they might be going... then I remembered. The Mandorah pub has been demolished. They must be driving to Litchfield pub! For the rest of the journey along Cox Peninsular Road (from about 8:30 - 10:30) a car came from behind me at least every 15 or 20 minutes. Very fast and some a bit too close. I took the message and got off the road whenever I saw one coming. One fella stopped to see if I was OK. he was a friendly bloke, 'just on his way to the pub for more beer...' Good reason for me to be off the road when he and others make their way home again I reckon.

Crossing Blackmore River (Half way mark about 60km) I was flagging and needed a rest. I pulled up under the school lights at Berry Springs and scoffed some food and most of my water. From here on the traffic became far more regular. Another 15 km to Noonamah (getting hard to peddle now).  Every 5 acre allotment has a dog to guard his master's territory... not every 5 acre allotment has fencing to contain said fanged guardians. As the barking grew closer my legs pumped harder. I reviewed my pre-ride bicycle maintenance schedule. Yes I pumped the tyres... No I didn't oil the bloody chain! Now the bloody thing is making so much noise I'm drawing the attention of every dog along the way! After about 90km of constant travel I could feel the resistance of every stubborn link!

Hoons on the road passed too close, one hero leaning out the passenger window of a car thought he'd put the wind up me... he seemed to lean a bit too far, if he fell out my conscience would probably dictate that I stop and help clean up the mess... fortunately it didn't happen. 

Finally reaching the Stuart Highway I felt I had made pretty good time, but my legs were aching, my knees and back were sobbing "Enough!" At Noonamah the servo was closed but the pub was still open. A few Impex workers and locals chatting outside. I slumped againts the servo wall hoed into an orange and guzzled more water. . As I sat there wondering if I would make it home my phone rang. A fellow cycling buddy called to check in on me. Of course Ego jumped in and a sufficient portion of bravado applied to assure him that this ride was a doddle for me. "I'm just cruising. Seriously why would I want you to come out and get me! Are you kidding?"

Another 15km to Coolalinga. I struggled back onto the bike and drank the remainder of my water quickly, my thoughts focused on a frozen coke at the new McDonald's.  (All my life I've shunned the golden arches, but as I progressed past the deadly Coolalinga intersection I felt myself almost praying it would be open.) As I drew close to the store a message appeared before my eyes... 24 hr. YES! 

Frozen coke and apple pie never tasted so good!

I took it easy the rest of the way home. Enjoying the bicycle path from Palmerston. Gamba grass fires had decimated a huge section of bushland along McMillans Road, I wonder what happened to the squatters camps in there. No traffic to bother me now, the moon so bright I could see the contours of every hill and tree, the familiar sound of Curlews and scrub fowl grew stronger as I approached my home the nights are not silent when the moon is so near. Rolled up to the gate at 12:15. Not bad. Ran a hot bath to ease my aching joints. At 1am I took one final look at my companion in the sky and slumped into bed with an immense feeling of gratitude for the freedom I have, satisfied with my effort, physically exhausted and spiritually renewed.  

Another jaunt along the Cox Pen Rd

Last night I decided I'd get up really early and cycle around to Mandorah on the Cox Peninsular Rd... I had intended to do most of the ride in the dark but was somewhat unprepared and found myself fixing my tail light when I should have been peddling!
Instead of leaving home at 3am I didn't wake up until 3:45am and didn't actually get on the road until about 4:30am. A very nice hour for cycling but not quite as early as I would have liked. I have always found the best way for me to leave all my troubles behind... is to get on my bike and leave all my troubles behind! With the thought that I might just keep on riding and not look back... (I always manage to get it out of my system by the end of the day, after a long ride)

I have thought a lot about cycling at night without lights but realistically this would only work on outback roads where there's no traffic. This morning there was no moon to ride by and I really needed my headlamp. The dark path between McMillans Rd and Howard Springs has all kinds of potential dangers if you can't see where you're going! The main hindrance to riding without a lights is the traffic. Riding on the Stuart Highway without a taillight could lead to a very short journey interrupted by a cattle truck. The other issue the problem of oncoming traffic... Even though much of the road is divided, headlights still pierce the night and any oncoming traffic will ruin a cyclists night vision. At least with a head light I can see something once the initial glare has worn off.

It was a beautiful morning for a ride, the sky was clear and without a moon I could see all the stars... for company I had Tom Petty on my music player and Jupiter and Venus to watch over me as I peddled. These two made powerful companions.

Light finally began to filter through the sky just as I was leaving Noonamah, I was really starting to like riding at night and had hoped to get a bit further but was happy with my progress. Riding by torchlight is actually really nice, it made it much easier for me to stop anticipating what might be around the next corner or how far I had come. Most of my attention was focused on the tiny portion of road that came into the beam of my headlight, nothing more. As I rolled on my mind began to unwind, I pondered some ideas and gave them up to the road. Free at last!

Hard to breath, hard to see!

Berry Springs CFA, have their work cut out for them!

Approaching Berry Springs I cycled through a think haze of smoke, which lasted almost all the way to the Blackmore River. There were several tree trunks burning in the scrub by the side of the road and the silhouettes of dead trees all over... everything was blackened right up to the canopy. It was easy to see how quickly the bush was being thinned out by successive fires, this is Gamba country and it is copping a pounding! So were my lungs!

Blackmore River Bridge

Blackmore River Bridge (posing with bike again)

When I got to the Blackmore river bridge I stopped for my second breakfast and the obligatory photograh. I haven't done much riding over the past month... Too busy. My legs and arse were starting to feel the strain of this ride. After sitting by the river for a while I inspected my bike. She's pretty rough now. I really only ride this bike on long road trips and the rest of the time she's sitting around gathering cobwebs, with vines growing through her spokes. I did nothing before leaving home to make sure the old thing would make it all the way around except put some air the tyres. On closer inspection I realized that the rear tyre had vertually worn to a completely flat surface, it was becoming thin, and covered in small cracks! Maybe a new tire would have been a good idea... and the chain had started squeaking... I can't remember when I last oiled it!  Oh well off we go again!

As usual by the time I reached the Blackmore river my energy was spent! I pressed on regardless (thank goodness it was a cool day!). The panier was full of food and I pulled up at 20km intervals to eat. Everything tasted amazing! My energy was so low and muscles were exhausted so I tried to compensate with food! So much for improving my stamina and condition... When in doubt Pig Out!
Here's what I ate on the trip:

2 x Pink Lady Apples
6 x Museli Bars (the sweet sugary type)
1 x box of shapes biscuits
3 x liter water

As usual the second half of the ride was less fun than the first. My shoulders and wrists were aching from the riding position, knees were unable to bear heavy peddling (they don't want to bend at all now!) and my feet had gone numb from having to wear shoes! Oh yeh and the toe I'm pretty sure I'd fractured a few weeks ago was telling me it didn't want to do this anymore and puffed up a bit causing more numbness and pain in my feet.

The sea was a milky blue but clear beside the Mandora Pier.

Arriving in Mandorah the sea was incredibly flat, no wind. I collapsed in the shade of the shed on the pier and waited for the ferry. Within moments I'd drifted into a semi dream half sleep. Soon the ferry arrived, full of tourists headed for the pub. I dragged myself and my bike down the stairs and boarded the vessel... by now my body had given up the fight and I just wanted to lay down somewhere and have a nap! It was a grueling journey, yet again, but somehow the physical punishment does something good to my soul!

The trip home from the ferry was very slow. I'd read that Kris Larson was manning his mobile caffe, 'Brown Sugar', down at the yacht club and I was craving a cup so headed off that way but must have missed him by a day or two... Bummer! Dragged myself up the hill to Fanny Bay and then laboured along the bike path to a shady spot near the beach on Nightcliff foreshore where I lay down and dozed. I eventually made it home just before two, had a shower and collapsed... completely spent.

Facts and rules for riders of the Cox Pen Rd

I have just dragged myself off the couch to make a quick post about the ride around Darwin Harbour while I am semi conscious and before I flake out on the couch again!

This will be short but I thought I'd post in-case I lapse into a fatigue induced coma!
Based a ride I've just come back from and previous experiences riding around Darwin Harbour.

Date: 07.08.11
Ride: Leanyer - Mandorah
Departure: 5:30am
Arrival: 11:15am
Duration: 5hr 45min

Rules for riding the Cox Peninsular Rd
(These could apply to any long rides in the Top-End)

1. Leave home early.... very early! Better to ride in the dark than in the full heat of the day.
2. If someone offers to help you by carrying water and food DO NOT refuse!
3. Carry spare tube, puncture kit etc.... (If someone else carry's these things for you that's cool too)
4. Avoid carrying anything yourself. (I've never done an assisted ride but dam I wish I had!)
5. Water, Sunscreen, water, long sleeves, water, snacks and water are essential.
6. If you're riding in a Club Ride or expect that you will be in the same vicinity and don't want to be scoffed or laughed at purchase all the latest gear, bike, licra, computer etc... etc... (Kit under $4,000 may not cut it)
7. Try not to be on the road between midday and 4:00pm  (The sun is a killer!)
8. Get some exercise before you go....

There's probably a few more rules but I'm getting queasy so will leave it at that!

Facts about riding the Cox Peninsular Rd
(The following information is based on my first hand experience... anyone wishing to dispute anything written below is free to accompany me on the next ride... You can carry all the shit!)

1. A 10 km commute each way to and from work 4 times per week is not enough training for a ride like this
2. If your not a super fit super fast rider and leave Darwin after 6:00am your going to be riding in the heat of the day.... (It's not pleasant riding the Cox Peninsular Rd in the heat of the day)
3. If you find yourself on the road after 12:00pm midday it is likely you are already feeling fatigued, you are going to suffer a sense of extreme demoralization, dehydration, aching knees and back, you may find yourself cursing every f--king thing you see on the road. The only consolation will be that all the really good riders have already passed you and it's likely that everyone else on the road is feeling the same way that you are... You might find yourself cursing them anyway just because they're there... 
4. If attend a group ride on a bike that is anything over 10 years old and you wear stubbies shorts and a secondhand flouro safety vest people will laugh at you!
5. If you wear said clothing and stand too near the gate of the Mandorah ferry club riders will mistake you for ship's crew and ask you to help them with their bikes... You won't get a tip!
6. If you carry all your own stuff and find yourself amongst a pack of riders on flash new carbon fibre bikes you will not be able to slip stream them... You will chew their dust and you will be scoffed at.
7. If you carry your own stuff you can pull up whenever you like and have a picnic, (This is a good time to find a comfy position and watch the licra brigade pushing hard through the heat to the next watering point. (There are some bonuses to being as uncool as me)
8. If you find you got home a little bit late due to being under prepared, unfit and suffering all kinds of pain don't expect a hero's welcome... ;) 

Dorky rider

Ride Summary
Left home (near Leanyer) 5:10am... forgot water, went back and filled up... Left home at 5:15am, got to the gate and realized one of my tail lights wasn't working, tried to fix it but fudged it instead and chucked it on top of the fridge.... Left home at 5:20am, forgot something else.... I can't remember what it was but I had to go back into the house to get it at great risk of waking family!
Left home at about 5:30am and cycled into the darkness feeling like I'd forgotten something but in no mood to return for it!
Had a great ride along the cycle path enjoying the starlight. (There was no moon). When I reached the usual turn off for the Stuart Highway I noticed the path continued ahead of me through what had been uncleared bushland last time I was there. I followed the path all the way to Howard Springs, it was awesome and I reckon it covers some really lovely country too. I'll have to get back and check it out during the day sometime, when my legs have recovered. Once at Howard Springs I had to double back to the main Rd to get back on the highway but it was well worth the detour.
Peddled into Noonamah at 7:00am, just in time to watch the sun rise. There had been a rodeo on Saturday night and there were people sleeping all over the place in swags and in the back of utes. A sign read 'Highway to Hell'. Ha!
Continued up the Stuart Highway munching on a cool fresh apple and grinning at my good fortune... Arghh the open road.
Arrived at Berry Springs pretty soon after feeling a little knee sore.. There was a food stop for the Club Riders who had registered for the Around the Bay ride with Darwin Cycling Club. Had a brief rest there and discovered one of my water bottles had split, chatted with the ride officials, who advised me that the first group had left Palmerston about half an hour previously, they'd be coming through pretty soon. I kind of wanted to stay and watch them pass through but thought I'd get the jump on them and pushed off.


Bunch of riders

Next stop was the Blackmore River for my obligatory photo next to the sign... I don't know why but I've done it every time... Just as I was getting an orange out of my bag I heard the whoosh of about 10 cyclists flying by.. Here they come. The first of 250 riders.
I jumped back on and peddled off after them... I had no chance. I was only half way around and was already flagging. The rest of the ride was grueling, as it always is. I struggled along, stopping for a drink or to eat some fruit.By the time I'd come to Mandorah the other riders around me weren't going so fast either.
I limped into Mandorah at about 11:15 and could see the ferry coming. When it arrived and the passengers had disembarked I lifted my bike onto the roof where it was surrounded by more carbon fibre than I've ever seen in my life, riders gingerly passed their precious cargo up to the top deck, flinching at every knock or scrape. Gratefully I stepped aboard and crashed into one of the inside chairs.
I looked around at the other riders, none of them seemed as stuffed as I was! They were all shining and smiling with fit capable bodies, I put on my bravest face and did my absolute best not to hobble.. but it was no use, it was obvious I'd hit the wall!


Mandorah Pier (With cyclists)

It took me an hour and a half to ride the 10 km home.

Reflection: At least this time I made it to Mandorah before midday. Good luck to those who were still on the road.

Riding the cox peninsular road (couple of years ago)

I just re-discovered this video I made after a ride a couple of years ago.
Cycling adventures are fairly thin on the ground for me lately and with Christmas approaching I am inclined to reminisce.


Cycling the Cox Pen Rd from David F on Vimeo.

We'll be doing another group ride along the Cox Peninsular Road some time in January... See you there!

Time Out

I like to travel.... I know why and it's partly escapism and possibly a collection of other factors like a spirit of adventure, the desire to see new things the desire to put space between me and my responsibilities, stuff like that which makes me want to 'Hit The Road'! I had intended to spend my life drifting around, exploring the world meeting people, learning things and identified strongly with Samuel L Jackson's line in Pulp Fiction.

Quote:

Jules: "Basically I'm just gonna walk the earth." Vincent: "Whatcha mean 'walk the earth'?" Jules: "You know, like Caine in Kung Fu - walk from place to place, meet people... More »

Jules: "Basically I'm just gonna walk the earth."
Vincent: "Whatcha mean 'walk the earth'?"
Jules: "You know, like Caine in Kung Fu - walk from place to place, meet people, get in adventures. "

(OK I'd just like to acknowledge the fact that Caine had a lot of adventures that I wouldn't like to experience... However I tended to like the romantic notion of wandering, as if on a kind of spiritual journey in the way alluded to by Jules... Which on the flip side could be considered to be a form of punishment, like it was for Abel's brother)

I have come to realize that I have gone from being a person who would take off every weekend on some adventure or another to becoming a Dad and effectively confined to quarters for most of the time. Or having to plan adventures in advance, of course there are now an infinite number of conditions that apply to any proposed travel which generally results in most travel taking place between our place and the local playground!

There are occasionally opportunities to do something unusual but they are few and far between. Lately I have once again fallen into another funk! A chronic Back ache has been distracting all mental concentration... I've been a bit despondent about work and feeling a strong desire to do something radical and stupid... Like sell all our stuff, buy a Yacht and sail off into the sunset! (My wife has dutifully reminded me that I don't know how to sail!)

Last week I discussed cycling around the harbour with some friends but they really didn't seem too enthusiastic. So Yesterday I decided I would take a day of my annual leave and peddle off on my own!

Fan-bloody-tastic! I packed some gear last night, made some sandwiches, pumped the tires on the trusty Shogun then set my alarm for 5:30 and went to bed early. Somehow I managed to wake at 5:00am and was out the door by 5:30 with the first light of dawn illuminating the path before me.

The sunrise was beautiful at Coolalinga. By 7:00am I was at Noonamah where I saw a friend who was waiting for the school bus, he seemed a bit nonplussed, must have been bummed out about having to go to school.. I know just how that feels!
Leaving Noonamah I was starting to feel the twinge in my knees but refused to let it bother me! By the time I'd reached Tumbling Waters which is the half way mark I was really starting to feel the strain of the ride. I stopped for a brief look out over the Blackmore river gulped a heap of water and scoffed a couple of peanut butter and honey sandwiches then pressed on.

(At the Blackmore river Bridge)


(Looking out over the Blackmore River)

The second 60 km of this ride always wears me down. It's a combination of fatigue from having already ridden for a couple of hours straight and the rising heat of day. By the time I'd reached Belyuen just 10km from the Mandorah Pier, I'd drunk all my water and was struggling to keep my legs pumping. 10 more grueling kilometers in the heat and I finally made it to Wagait Beach shop. I skulled half a 1.25 litre bottle of Soda water then pushed hard to get to the Pier just in time to catch the 11:20am Ferry!


(A view of the Mandorah Pier from my reclining position on the Sea Cat)

I made it! Exhausted I crashed out on the boats engine covers in absolute bliss! Sam brought the boy down to meet me and see the boats... I would have ridden the rest of the way home but I was so fagged I gratefully pulled the wheels off and slumped into the passenger seat. On the way home we stopped at a public Rally against poverty where there was a free sausage sizzle and cool drinks. What a great way to purge a restless spirit!


(Bricks Without Straw players)


P.S.

Date: 22/10/10

Ride: Leanyer – Mandorah (Around Darwin Harbour)

Distance 121km

Departure time: 5:30am

Arrival time Mandorah: 11:15am

Total duration of ride: 5 hours 45 minutes.